We took a leisurely drive from Modica to Agrigento, passing farm fields and especially vineyards. Our Agrigento hotel was not in the city center but out at the beach. This spot seemed like a working community with few tourists. The waiter at the bar where Robert got his morning cappuccino knew on the second day that no sugar was needed and that the cornetto should be vuoto (not filled). And the lady at the panificio (bakery) knew that Bonnie did not tolerate milk, warning Robert which pastries had cream. Pretty good! We do not get that personal attention at Starbucks or Peet’s.
Robert noticed the working farm across from the panificio planted with beans, onions, and fave.
We came to Agrigento—Valle dei Templi— for the Greek temples. We drove to the temple site with perhaps a sense of obligation to see more important ruins. Our first siting came as we drove along a winding country road through wooded fields. That first glimpse of the Temple of Concord, very big, up high, orange against the blue sky, almost completely intact, made Bonnie gasp, “wow.” The entire temple park is a national monument of Italy and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the 1,300 hectares make it the largest archaeological site in the world.
A string of seven temples stretch along a four-kilometer ridge. Some temples still stand while others do not.
We were pretty amazed at the scale and expanse of the area. Along with the museum where we spent about an hour, we took about 4 hours strolling slowly from temple to amazing temple.
Temple of ConcordTemple of HeraCentral four-kilometer path connecting the templesTemple of Hercules
Other just as important items
We rounded a corner on our pre dinner walk and found a mob of people in front of this gelateria. The photo shows only one of the TWO cases of gelati flavors. Not sure how people eat a large gelato and soon after eat dinner but it seems routine here.White sparkling wine made from Nero d’Avola grapes. Very good.Local bar where we had evening drinks and Robert had his morning cappuccini and cornetti. Note Italians consistently in black or navy, and Robert not.Beans, fave, and onions
We promise Parte Due is not as long as Parte Uno! It’s just that we saw so much around the town of Modica in southeast Sicily.
This part addresses:
Churches
Flowers
Chocolate
We hit Sicily at what seems to be the height of the flower season. Lots of colors. Lots of poppies. Color is not limited to the countryside as we found many potted plants on our walks.
And because Modica is renowned for chocolate, a legacy of Spanish occupation, we managed to find a workshop tour that we took on the day we departed for Agrigento.
Enjoy!
Chiese
Most of the churches are baroque. Late, Spanish-influenced baroque. Verging on roccoco. The biggest surprise is that some of the plainest facades front the most elaborate interiors. All seem to be dedicated to a saint, including at times exquisite statues that capture the miraculous moment of their lives. Very long sets of stairs leading up to the churches especially in Modica and Noto.
ModicaModicaModicaModicaModicaModicaModicaModicaModicaModicaModicaSt. George slaying the dragon, Modica
Scicli
Scicli
Mary on horseback in papier mache, Scicli
Scicli
Scicli
Duomo di Siracusa – Ortigia A Greek temple in 5th century BC. Built over in 7th century as a cathedral with Greek columns incorporated. Baroque facade added along with rebuilding after earthquake in 1693.
Greek column incorporated, Ortigia
Ortigia
Curvy solid-silver figure of saint, Ortigia
Ortigia
NotoNotoNoto
Noto
NotoNotoNoto
Fiori
Chocolate
Have we mentioned that Modica is renowned for its chocolate? If you say “No”, you have not read our posts! Pics below of our tour in chocolate making.
Battering the chocolate in their molds forces the fat to the top resulting in a shiny surface.
Next blog: You want Greek temples? We got Greek Temples!
We settled in Modica, a baroque town in southeast Sicily, for 8 days, first getting acquainted with the historic area around our B&B, then taking day trips to towns and historic sites within 1.5 hours.
Below are descriptions of places we visited. After these, you will find our experiences categorized by what we saw and ate! Enjoy!
Ortigia-Siracusa
The highlight of Ortigia, the island that is the old town of Syracuse, went beyond the lively morning fish and vegetable mercato and the baroque architecture. Il Teatro dei Pupi (puppets) dates back to the Spanish occupation in the 1600s. The puppets, about 30 inches tall and beautifully clothed, are operated from above by three rods. The puppet shows are a continuing series of one story that revolves around the woman Angelica, whose beauty causes multiple knights, a king, and a warlord to pursue her, mixed with sorcery and the conquest of Sicily by the Saracens. (Literature majors will remember Orlando Furioso.) As with a series today, we were left with a cliffhanger—the castle burning, multiple slayings, and Angelica in total grief as to what her fate will be. We will need to come back next month if we want to see the next installment.
Morning market
Lots of local fish
According to Ovid, Alpheus sees his love Arethusa, who with the help of the goddess Diana, turns into water to escape the river god’s erotic pursuit, Didn’t turn out as she had wanted because the river god transformed himself back into water and “commingled” with her anyway.
Teatro dei Pupi
Angelica with the first of many knights to follow
Sorceress enters the scene
One of many slayings by a knight
Ragusa
Still baroque.
Noto
Still baroque.
Bonnie discovers this world-famous gelateria and pastry shop, documented on Chef’s Table on Netflix, is closed on Mondays!
Scicli
More baroque. Great town. Could have stayed here several days.
The mayor’s office from the Inspector Montalbano television series
Portopalo Capo Passero
The southwest-most point in Sicily. Historically known for tuna fishing. Had a fabulous seafood lunch here.
Marzamemi
Also known for tuna fishing. Now known as the site for festivals.
Cava d’Ispica
Within 20 minutes of Modica, the hillsides are layered with soft and hard rock facilitating digging for dwellings and catacombs.
Greek military gymnasiumGreek lettering from fifth century BCE identifying seating for the senior militaryRooms carved into the hillside. Some dwellings were on many levels. Front sheared off. Catacombs
Villa Romana del Casale
The largest expanse of Roman mosaics discovered to date—more than 3,500 square meters of flooring. This was a working estate. Some believe the owner imported exotic animals to be used in Rome’s Coliseum.
Le strade e Le passeggiata
Most of the towns we visited are World Heritage Sites because they were rebuilt after a devastating earthquake in 1693 in late Baroque style influence by the Spanish. These towns are built into and on mountains, which results in narrow, winding walkways that traverse the topography—some only for pedestrians, but most also for cars. Lots of stairs provide shortcuts from level to level. It all looks like an urbanist’s dream from the 1960s but unachievable when you add concerns for life and safety.
The towns are a whole other experience. In some towns the streets are barely wide enough for our vehicle. This is where Waze is no longer fun, taking you on routes that no AI in its right algorithm should guide you to, especially when it involves a turn of 90 degrees or less on a 9-foot wide road. Robert on more than one occasion disobeyed (gasp!) Waze’s direction.
Modica’s regional road system varies from highways of high quality to those that appear to be unmaintained for 20 years. Lots of roundabouts. And lots of crazy Italian drivers that suddenly appear in your rearview mirror, follow you at a four-meter distance, and then turn out to pass you on a blind curve.
Many of the roads and fields near Modica are lined with dry-laid stone walls, some in disrepair and some recently built. All beautiful in their own right. Beyond many of these walls are hothouses clad in solid plastic. Some vineyards have the same structures but covered in a fine mesh. From a distance they look like large fields of light-colored soil.
A brief selection of the food and drinks we sampled in and around Modica. Lots of fish. A bit of a bite in some dishes. (Robert likes that!) Lots of vegetables incorporated into the meat dishes and a proliferation of caponata (zucchini, tomatoes, olives, capers, onions, etc). Very little garlic and not overly herbed. Very accommodating on milk-free dishes for Bonnie.
Oh, before we forget Modica is world renowned for its chocolate. Their recipe comes from Mexico via the Spanish in 1600. The Mexican recipe, only cacao and sugar, results in a richer and granular composition.
And one more item.
In eight days Robert walked 54 miles and climbed 200 floors and Bonnie walked 42 miles and climbed 125 floors. (He gets up earlier.)
For the first time, Bonnie is overwhelmed by the selection of chocolates.
Modica
Insalata – Noto
Caponata – Noto
Lolli con fave – Modica B&B breakfast – ModicaAnchovy and breadcrumbs – ModicaPesce – ModicaTagliatelle con pesce – ModicaModicaScaccia – Modica Alice – ModicaModicaModica Trippa! – ModicaInsalata mista – ModicaPizza del mare e pizza con salsiccia e funghi – ModicaPasta con granchio – ModicaPesce grigliata – ModicaPesce fritta – ScicliCafe lungo e uno cornetto – ModicaConiglio – ModicaAppetizers – Rigidi e crudo – Portopalo di Capo PasseroZuppa di pesce – Portopalo di Capo PasseroStrozza prete con tonno e pomodore – Portopalo di Capo Passero
