We left Serra around 10 nella matina (in the morning) for two days of driving to reach Modica in Sicily. We prefer 4-5 hours of driving plus time to eat and gas up because it allows us to arrive at our destination around 4 or 5 PM in time for the evening passeggiata.

We stopped briefly in Deruta to see decorative ceramic plates and found them not only in the stores but on the walls, light fixtures, and embedded in the sidewalks.

We arrived at the city of Salerno (Campania) and found our B&B with crucial assistance from Waze. Great view from the terrace high above the town. Went down to the centro in time to experience the passigiata in full swing. Hundreds of people strolling on the main shopping street. Bought three touring club map atlases of Italy. Bonnie, the geographer, is now quite happy.

Scilla

The next day we drove to Scilla, having missed the exit to Bagnara because Waze didn’t give us enough notice for the turnoff. Lucky mistake because we were able to drive down to the shoreline to experience complete grid lock on a Sunday afternoon in this tiny beach town.

Bonnie pointed out the view of Sicily across the Strait of Messina and gave Robert a lesson in Homer’s Odyssey, reading from Wikipedia:

In Homer‘s Odyssey XII, Odysseus is advised by Circe to sail closer to Scylla, for Charybdis could drown his whole ship: “Hug Scylla’s crag—sail on past her—top speed! Better by far to lose six men and keep your ship than lose your entire crew.”^[18] She also tells Odysseus to ask Scylla’s mother, the river nymph Crataeis, to prevent Scylla from pouncing more than once. Odysseus successfully navigates the strait, but when he and his crew are momentarily distracted by Charybdis, Scylla snatches six sailors off the deck and devours them alive.

“they writhed gasping as Scylla swung them up her cliff and there at her cavern’s mouth she bolted them down raw—screaming out, flinging their arms toward me, lost in that mortal struggle.”[

Pretty good stuff! Robert can see where Game of Thrones gets some of its inspiration.

Bagnara

Made it back to Bagnara by driving along the coastline and after an hour of negotiation found a room a block from the water just in time to stroll with the locals and Italian tourists.

The next day on his morning walk, Robert saw two fishermen whose luck was the same as Robert normally experiences—no fish today. Their poles were 7 meters long! Small carts and vehicles dot the shoreline road selling vegetables but mostly fresh fish.

Sicilia (Sicily)

Next morning it only took 40 minutes to get to the ferry to cross to Messina (Sicilia). We were among the first on (and the first off). On the way to Modica we stopped to have a late lunch and to scout out Noto, another baroque town and world heritage site. We’ll return for a day visit.

Noto

Modica

Arrived in Modica around 5 PM. Modica, a town of about 50,000 is part of the world heritage site known for late baroque architecture. Several towns were entirely rebuilt after a catastrophic earthquake in 1693. We plan to stay here for a week or two. Thanks to Dennis Landry for his recommendation to visit Modica. More to follow.

Come sta il braccio di Bonnie?

The broken elbow is much better six weeks after the fall and surgery, but Robert is still on duty full time to pack bags, cut food, open bottles, and carry things. Breakthrough today: a bit of eye liner and mascara with the left hand!

Commentari della moda con i occhi di Bonnie

Black. Not the only color for women, but always a good choice, especially in the evening and for special occasions.

Navy blue. If you are a young man who wants to be taken seriously (say, for an appearance on tv) or a rumpled old guy hanging out all day at the bar, chose at least two of the following: navy trousers, navy light sweater, navy jacket, navy sport coat. This is the legacy of the Italian’s love of English men’s clothing.

Bright blue. Popular choice for eyeglass frames.

Red. If you are doing red lipstick, go very big and very bold.