22-25 August 2019
After returning from three days at the coast in Pesaro-Fano, we spent one day in Serra and then took off again to visit Luciana’s son, Dario Forato, near Parma.
But our day in Serra is one we will remember. We were invited by Claudio Pantaleoni, his wife Natasha, and the three children to see their summer house in Bellisio Alto (about 8 kilometers from Serra). During the school year they live in northern France and Claudio teaches religion in Luxembourg, but during the summer they like being close to Claudio’s childhood home in Serra, so they renovated a stone house built around the 15th century. When they were searching for a house, their main objectives were finding a great view of the countryside and being in a quiet area. They succeeded wildly in both. Their view is one of the best we have seen, and they are even deeper in the countryside than the town of Serra.
At the house they treated us to late afternoon champagne and snacks as well as an impressive piano recital by all three kids. Afterward we drove to Pergola (very close) for pizza and more conversation. Major topics were home schooling (they are pursuing it after disappointment with a small French public school), learning languages (they all speak several), the decline of the monastic life at Fonte Avellana, and conflict in Ukraine.
Bellisio Alto and Pergola
Serra and some wanderings
The next morning we woke early to a great thunderstorm. It reminded Robert of his hikes in the Sierra with Mitch, Jim, and Sig.
Cibo e bibite a casa
Sant’Andrea Bagni,
Province of Parma
On Friday we loaded our luggage back in the car and headed northeast toward Parma. We were taking Luciana to visit her son Dario and supply him with additional bedding, towels, and food. The predicted 3 hour 20 minute drive on the autostrada took 6 hours 30 minutes. (Friday traffic, August vacation traffic, and a few accidents.)
Dario’s apartment is in a small spa town in the green hills outside of Parma, just ten minutes from his job. The town of Sant’Andrea is (was) known for its terme (hot springs for bathing). It has only one hotel, which faces a wooded park. Very pleasant and laid back.
For almost a year Dario has been away from Rome, working as an engineer at a company that does thermo coating of airplane parts. His degree in aeronautical engineering is paying off, and he is enjoying the work. Unemployment for young people in Italy stands at about 25 percent, so landing a full time job deserves a celebration.
In our conversations with cousins, most of the families with teenagers tell us that because of the economy they are preparing their kids to work abroad—elsewhere in Europe, in Britain, or in the US. This is a real cultural shift for Italian parents, who have long expected several generations to stay in the same home town. But it echos the great wave of immigration from Italy to the US in past decades. Parents we know are focused on English language fluency and job skills for their children.
Cena in Roccalanzona
We ate dinner in the countryside, a short drive from Dario’s apartment. Close enough that everyone knew Dario—the chef, the waiters, and the customers! Great local food. Torta fritta is one of the specialities of the region. And Robert believes this area should be called the Capitol of Maile (Pig Capitol) because the region seems to make full use of pigs in all manner of cured meats as you will see in the photos.
Parmigiano Reggiano in Rubianno
Dario sent Luciana and Robert to visit Rastelli, a company that makes Parmigiano Reggiano. After Luciana purchased some cheese, she asked for a tour, and we were surprised to get a very thorough look at the cheese-making process. The owner along with two workers were enthusiastic about their work. The owner knew Dario, said what a great guy he is, and said she hoped he would find a “bella ragazza” in the area. Everyone seems to be on the lookout for Dario!
The owner started the tour by explaining that the milk must come from specific breeds of cows who graze in the hills and mountains nearby. They add a coagulant to the milk and pour it into copper kettles with double walls to allow heated water to circulate and warm the ingredients. After two hours, the cheese is ready to be lifted, divided into two portions, and placed in plastic forms to compress the cheese for several days. Next the cheese goes into metal forms for several days. After that, they soak the cheese in salt water (the same water can be used for 30 years), air dry, and place it in a room for aging, for 12, 24, or 36 months. All the steps after the copper kettles take place in refrigerated rooms. They pull off cream from the remaining liquid to make butter and sell what remains to local pig farmers.
Parma—Wanderings
Parma—Giardino Ducale
Parma—Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta
Parma—Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista
Fontanellato
Dario suggested the small castle town of Fontanellato for a Sunday outing. This area of Italy is filled with castles. This castle has a moat, and on the Sunday we arrived there was a mercato that extended far into the town.
Fontanellato—Wanderings
Fontanellato—Mercato
More posters!!!!
Pranzo in Fontanellato
On the way back to Sant’Andrea Bagni
