18-23 October 2019
Now, to be specific, my cousins are Trevigiani. They live east of the Piave River and according to the patriarch Costante Marchesin and his daughter Mirella, that made them Trevigiani, NOT Veneziani. Trevigiani is a more specific designation, although no one seems to use that distinction these days.
In years past, the Trevigiani spoke in such a strong dialect that Robert’s father could not understand them when he visited with the family in 1962. Robert’s mom, who was brought up with that dialect at home in San Mateo, served as the translator. When she was growing up, her father insisted that they speak in the Trevigiani dialect at home. Robert’s mom did not learn English until she attended kindergarten.
After Venice we spent a few days with Miryam, Alessandro, and the boys to say hello and goodbye. We caught up with other relatives in the area too! About ten households. We really enjoyed our time with the family here. Each time we learn more about their daily lives through our lens of retirement.
Vittorio Veneto
Our trip from Venice to Oderzo was short so we decided to have lunch in Vittorio Veneto. Found a nice place filled with locals and with local dishes. Robert had Radici e fasioi, a very typical dish up here. It is made with fresh radicchio lathered in a puréed bean soup (think refried beans) with diced lardo (think diced prosciutto without the meat). Very tasty. Good for a cool fall or cold winter day. On our trip in 2001 with Robert’s parents, his mom ordered this in Pordenone. She remembered it from her childhood.
Dinner with the Marchesin Family in Treviso
With all these Marchesins, we know this is confusing. Michele is the son of Robert’s mom’s first cousin Mario Marchesin, so he is Robert’s second cousin. The family has been in the clothing industry for centuries. Focusing in the past century on knitwear.
Dinner with the Zanette Family
Not cousins, but they should be. Marisa Zanette is the sister-in-law of Robert’s aunt Angela in San Mateo (wife of Robert’s Uncle Rico). Marisa and her son Francesco live in Conegliano, while her daughter Silvia and husband Davide live in Florence. (Yes, they did the 4.5-hour drive to see us . . . so very nice of them.) Vittorio, son of Marisa, recently married Daniela and they live nearby in Cappella Maggiore. We all met at Marisa’s home, drank a fine bottle of prosecco, and then went to the Trattoria alla Sorte for a real Italian Sunday family lunch in the country in Costa Alta Conegliano. We caught up on our lives and Robert had no time for photos at the table!
Benedet Family
Bruno Benedet married Mirella Marchesin (sister of Beppino and Silvana Marchesin). At 90, Bruno is home most of the time, but his son Andrea, an accountant, moved his office close to his father’s house so he sees Bruno many times each day.
A Day Trip
We took off late morning one day to explore a few places in the area: Pordenone and Portogruaro.
Compared to our visit in June, the fields we drive by are now beginning to take on their autumn colors. Vineyards that were lush and full of grapes in June, have been harvested and are showing off hints of yellow. Some vines have already lost their leaves. Most of the corn/silage has been harvested along with the sunflowers. The sky is grey most days and the weather is cool. Compared to the heat of June, it is quite a treat.
Pordenone
A port town on the Noncello River. It was under Roman rule and subsequent rule by Venice and Austria, and finally annexed by Italy. A fairly sleepy place but it made a nice short visit and a place to have lunch and a gelato of course!
Portogruaro
Located on the Lemene River, this is also a river port town and a comune in the Metropolitan City of Venice. We just picked it out on a map and were pleasantly surprised by what we discovered. Gruaro seems to mean the home of the gru (the water birds).
Dinner out with the Marchesins (Miryam, Alessandro, Leonardo, and Michele)
Why, oh why, did Robert take pics only of the food?!
Bottene
As some of you know, Robert has a torchio that he purchased from Pastabiz on Harrison Street in San Francisco. They carry a wide range of pasta machines for restaurants and commercial establishments. Famous New York Italian restaurants get their equipment here. Robert’s torchio is the smallest they offer and is operated like a large cookie press. You turn the handle on top and the pasta emerges from the bottom through a die. You insert different brass dies to make different pasta shapes. Robert discovered that the torchio manufacturer was located on the way to Vincenza, so we stopped in, saw the small family-owned business, met the owner, and purchased a few dies. One die that Robert wanted was out of stock, so they made a new one in ten minutes. Very nice folks.
Before we forget . . .
A few items to capture in our blog before we forget.
