A short drive from Serra to Perugia in Umbria. So short that we took the longer route to see the countryside.
Although we visited Perugia on past trips, we never stayed overnight. Spending eight days there allowed us to better understand Perugia’s character and take day trips to nearby towns in Umbria. (The next post talks about the day trips.)
We were pleasantly surprised by Perugia. Although it is a city of 140,000, the center is quite compact and adjacent to several student neighborhoods, although these require a climb on steep hills. The population in the center is quite mixed in age. Students sit alongside families with small kids and older folks as they socialize on the two parallel main streets. There are shops that have not forgotten the local residents. A supermarket and a butcher shop are on one of these main streets. You only need to step a block or two away from the city center to become immersed in local flavors and to get your cappuccino and cornetto marmalade for less cost.
Our wanderings around town included a tour of “underground Perugia”—excavations under the cathedral that where you can see Etruscan columns and walls as well as Roman roads and walls. We even made it to a weaving business and museum that uses looms from the 1850s and is operated today by the fourth generation of its founder. It is a combination of history, art, and commerce all rolled into one. Very interesting. Damask linen tablecloths from Perugia were famous for centuries. They were included in the dowry of Catherine de Medici and depicted by da Vinci in the Last Supper. This weaving business continues to produce the traditional patterns as well as new ones commissioned for interior design projects.
Wanderings
Our place in PerugiaVery worn steps up to our room on the third floor (second floor in Italy)View from our window. Church bells all during the night and day. But we could not figure out the logic of when and the number of times the bells chimed.Sketch material A potential gate design for our home Hydraulic bollards are a new touch to Perugia and similar medieval towns. They can be raised and lowered as needed to create a pedestrian-only zone.Sketch materialRobert got excited for Bonnie when he misread this as “palazzo sorbetto.” Oh well.City workers with old-fashioned brooms precede the street sweeper in the truck.Symmetry is very important, even if you have to fake it with paint.Lane to our roomMay look familiar to Susan KearneyWe happened across a performance by a university choral group in a church.For Gino SecondoSigns show how much the university is integrated into the town.
Museo Capitolare, Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
Etruscan columnEtruscan walls. These were seen by the public and therefore were cut neat and trim.Wheel ruts worn into the Roman road.
National Gallery of Umbria
The national galleries are beautifully done. Great collections with lovely spaces, good lighting, helpful captions, and comfortable temperatures.
Saturday Mercato
Because the famous covered mercato of Perugia is being renovated, we had to take the people mover out to a remote parking area for the Saturday mercato.Mercato. 99 centissemi says it all.For Jim and Mary. So much to choose from!
National Museum of Archeology of Umbria
Etruscan tombs below the museum. Each holds ashes of one person. Each has engravings with text (some painted).Some of the most extensive Etruscan writing found to date. Read right to left. This was a boundary marker with the contract explaining a property division between two owners, and it includes spelling corrections (Yes, Chuck, you were right).Silver coin of Marco Aurelio, Roman emperor 161-180 ADOur Roman coin (not silver), which Zio Alfredo found at a construction site and gave to Robert’s dad. Same emperor? Bonnie thinks this may be Hadrian.
Looms—Museum and Workshop
Ellin and Callie—a place for you to see.Punch cards used for damask weaving patterns. Forerunners of computer programs.Fourth-generation owner
Basilica Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
Stained-glass window reflection.
Street Art
Cibo e bibite
PerugiaPerugiaFirst timeSecond timeThird timeFirst timeSecond time
