Palermo a Domenico

16-17 November 2022

This is one packed post because of Domenico’s relentless effort to show us as much of Palermo as he could fit into twelve hours on 17 November, the day after we arrived in the city from Agrigento. At the end of Domenico’s tour, we were exhausted and yet happy for day’s events. It took Bonnie several days to recover. We arranged to meet Domenico at 10:00 am despite his insistence that we start at 8:30 am. Luckily, Bonnie won out for 10 because we needed the additional sleep to increase our energy reserves for the day ahead.

We met Domenico Aronica at our apartment near the Teatro Massimo and requested that he first give his regular tour to acquaint Bonnie’s brother Richard with Palermo and reacquaint us with the details. Domenico mentioned ground hog day (Bill Murray reference) but obliged us. We heard the phrase a few more times during the day. Since we met in 2019, Domenico has been included in Rick Steves’s guide book to Sicily. They note his “dad” jokes. Always good. Even the second and third time!

During our six days in Palermo we were overwhelmed by the warmth of Domenico, his wife Laura, and Domenico’s parents—Guiseppe and Maria Antonietta. They went out of their way to show us Palermo and include us in their lives. Robert told Domenico that he considers him a dear friend and that he and Bonnie have cousins in north, central, and now southern Italy.

For those of you or your friends intending to go to Palermo, be sure to take Domenico’s tour—https://palermowalkingtour.com

Some facts about Palermo. Its urban population is 850,000—a bit bigger than San Francisco. It has an international airport that Richard used to begin his return trip to California. But Palermo does not have Uber in the very early morning (late evening, yes) as Richard found out on the morning of his flight. It does have a significant underground (black market) economy. Founded in 723 BCE by the Phoenicians, Palermo is more that 2,700 years old. Like many parts of Sicily, the city and its culture are a result of domination by many powers over the centuries—Greek, Carthaginian, Roman, Arabic, Norman, and Spanish, and finally its unification with the Republic of Italy. This history is evident in its architecture, art, food, and its people. We still hear Sicilian spoken here.

On the Road to Palermo

Richard rode shotgun and took photos as we crossed Sicily from Agrigento on the south coast to Palermo on the north coast. We had read about Sicily supplying wheat to the Roman Empire but had not seen the landscape that produced it. We were surprised and delighted to see gorgeous rolling hills with enormous fields freshly plowed for the next crop. Near and distant mountains of stone dramatically dot the landscape. On our way, we detoured to Corleone for lunch because we were curious about its mafia history. Actually a nice place. The name might sound familiar to Godfather fans. And, yes, it was the home to prominent mafia families who prevented Coppola from filming there. Also the home of the most violent of mafia families in the 1980s and 90s.

Sometimes it is hard to see where the rock ends and the village begins.

Lodging

Again a great choice by Bonnie. A spacious two-bedroom apartment, a ten-minute walk to the historic center and close to a few great restaurants. But the best feature was the washing machine. We used it almost every day to get our basin-washed clothes back up to par.

Strolling

We managed a short walk the night before meeting Domenico. Christmas lights were just appearing.

Plastic sheets to protect the balconies from rain.

D Day Tour (D=Domenico)

Quattro Canti. Four corners with statues of the seasons, rulers of Sicily, and saints

Palazzo not yet renovated. Still showing damage from WWII bombing.

Fountain of shame. The nuns overlooking the statues from their convent were appalled by the male nudity and took action with hammers and chisels.

Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (Chiesa Martorana)

This carved wood door is more than 1100 years old.

The Norman king Ruggero II receives his crown from Christ (circa 1130). Normally, the pope would crown a king. In this case, the king chose to bypass the pope.

Chiesa del Caterina d’Alessandria

This stunning church was affiliated with a convent of cloistered nuns next door. Back then, the first-born male inherited all of a family’s wealth. Daughters were often sent to convents as young children and churches received generous donations from their families to build elaborate places of worship. In this church, the nuns were known for pastries that they sold after mass. They invented marzipan! While the nuns are gone, the pastries remain, made by a group of young women. We made sure to see both—the church and the pastries.

The use of marble in this church is beyond belief. Artisans inlaid marble in different colors to create intricate scenes. A must see that you encounter on Domenico’s tour.

Pastry distribution after mass. By using this wheel, the nuns could remain hidden while selling their pastries.

I Segreti del Chiostro

And now for pastries. Most made without milk to Bonnie’s delight!

Strolling with Domenico

You find many street niches like this dedicated to Christ, a saint, or a deceased family member. Domenico says there are 2,000.

Sheet metal work – many shops side by side

City Archives

This archive houses documents of Palermo dating back hundreds of years. If your descendants are from Palermo, go here. Richard pointed out that there is no climate control. Domenico, picked one book off the shelf dated 1686 to show us its contents. Amazing.

More Strolling with Domenico

Palazzo with incredibly over-scaled stairway leading up to a hotel.

The Market

It was now the afternoon. The market was slowing down a bit, but still active.

Rivals the giant lemons that Robert’s father grew in San Mateo

Pani con la Milza

Robert thought he was going to have a Pani con la Milza (spleen sandwich) until the guy drew a knife on him. Turns out he needed more spleen but pulled back when Domenico told him Robert’s had already been removed!

Walking a Bit More

Yes. Part of the tour so Bonnie had to take a look.

Pranzo (Lunch)

Real Casina alla Cinese (Chinese Palace)

It was getting dark, but there was still more to see. The palace is a former royal country residence of the House of Bourbon-Two Sicilies. It was designed in 1799 by the architect Giuseppe Venanzio Marvuglia on commission by the King Ferdinand III of Sicily. It is a few miles from the center of Palermo on the road to Mondello.

Mondello

It was getting darker. We drove northwest to Mondello, a small beach community with an active fishing fleet. When people in Palermo want to swim, this is where they go.

Palazzo dei Normanni (Norman Palace)

Just made it back to Palermo to see a bit of the Norman seat of power after conquering Sicily in 1072. We got there just in time to be kicked off the grounds as they closed the gates behind us. Next trip.

Dinner at Domenico, Laura, Lorenzo, and Ricardo’s

Wow! And if that was not enough, Domenico brought us to dinner at their apartment. Laura cooked spaghetti with clams and a main course of sword fish while Domenico entertained us with his musical talents (piano) and a video he made of Palermo. He also introduced us to his pet Speedy. He rescued this snail from an artichoke leaf. Speedy has been part of the household for several months and even went on vacation with the family to France! Robert does not think Domenico eats escargot.