Ortigia/Ortygia

10-12 November 2022

We have been to Ortigia before and will go again. This time, we introduced Richard (Bonnie’s brother) to this appealing tourist town, steeped in history. History is apparent in its culture, food, and architecture. Greeks set up a substantial colony here, but like the rest of Sicily, over the centuries Ortigia buckled under waves of Arabs, Normans, Spanish, and others. Ortigia is a small island, adjacent to the city of Syracuse. Its name originates from the ancient Greek word for quail. (We did not see any, even on menus.) Ortigia was the setting for many Greek legends. Greeks thought of it as the birthplace of the gods Artemis and Apollo, the place of illicit union of the goddess Eos with a mortal (frowned on by the gods), and the home of Arethusa, a chaste river goddess who ended up not so chaste. Water was involved.

As an island, it makes a great fortress with harbors—big enough to sustain a large population. It has a strong tourist trade, although in November, things were slightly quieter.

Finally got the warning light to add **AdBlue** that reduces emissions from Diesel engines. Learned that if you run out, the engine will not run. Good incentive to make sure it does not run out.

Lodging

We lucked out again. Although we had to schlep our bags about a kilometer through a pedestrian zone to get to the place, it was worth it.

Our hosts were primed to give us an overview of Ortigia. Their breakfasts were all organic and locally/regionally sourced. Each morning they gave a five-minute introduction to the food we were about to consume.

Strolling

Fountain devoted to Arethusa, the once-chaste nymph

Lots of cats in Ortigia, perhaps because of the local people provide great lodging and food.

Mercato

Richard and Robert went early, perhaps too early because there were more stands later in the morning.

Parking Ticket

We parked in a large open area that required us to pay by app. We paid for twenty-four hours, the maximum, and noted that we would need to renew this the following day. But the next day, we received this ticket marked at 11:00 AM even though we were still in Catania at that time. Not worth a discussion. The good news is that Robert was able to pay for ticket at the post office. You can also pay at a tobacconist.

Cattedrale di Siracusa

This cathedral is unique because it was built over many periods and retains portions of Greek, Norman, and baroque styles of architecture.

Chiesa di Santa Lucia alla Badia

Castillo Maniace

The castle fortress was constructed between 1232 and 1240 by Frederick II, Holy Roman Emperor. This guy ruled from Sicily, up to Germany, and even to Jerusalem. His power grew too great for the Papacy, which became his enemy. He was an avid patron of science and the arts. He even outlawed trial by ordeal. Richard saw some Spanish architectural influence in the building.

16th-century hand grenades made of metal or ceramics. After being lit and thrown, there was triggering mechanism that exploded when it hit an obstacle. Originally, they were called grenades because they looked similar to pomegranates (granata).

Puppet Museum

Unfortunately the Teatro di Pupi had ended its performances for the season. We saw a great show there in 2019. But Bonnie found this puppet museum that turned out to be quite good.