21-24 September 2022
Although Bonnie and Robert are left leaning, we do as instructed in London and look right when crossing the street.
The Brits speak the same language . . . almost. Tills are cash registers, chips are french fries, a biscuit is a cookie, peckish is a bit hungry, the first floor is the second floor as in Europe, etc.
London seems bigger than Paris. The tube connects you to many nodes of intense retail activity. The depth and density of crowds is on an uber level compared to other cities we have visited so far. Venice may be dense, but it is compact. In London, the crowds take over a wide geographic area.
The London Underground Metro System (Tube) takes a bit of figuring out. It is vast and will get where you want to go. For some transfers between stations you need to make a ten-minute walk through underground passageways. At one station Bonnie saw young people headed to the lifts (elevators) instead of the stairway, and she followed them. Robert agreed when he heard the intercom announce that we were fifteen stories underground. On work days, the pace is fast. On weekends, not so much. We downloaded the Metro app that shows the locations of stations along with the walking distances. Unfortunately, when you exit a station, it does not guide you to your destination. You need Google maps for that and that app is a bit squirrelly here. Avoid Apple Maps. Still not up to speed. The Metro has another app that allows you to use your phone and go ticketless. You just tap your phone on the turnstile. We find that very handy.
London is filled with large parks. Very open. Very graceful. But unlike Paris, the majority of streets are not lined with trees. When Robert worked south of London, he would take the train in on weekends to visit the parks. On one occasion in 1973 he heard the sounds of American football—hut one, hut two, hut three. Looking over to the players, he recognized the journalist Peter Jennings who was stationed here for ABC. Robert also remembers that the fenced-off lawns in the parks were not mowed often, giving them a meadow-like appearance. We enjoyed strolling through Kensington Gardens on Sunday. Lots of space. Lots of birds at the Round Pond. Lots of enormous old trees. Lots of happy dogs.
London is VERY multicultural. Every country seems to be represented. It puts San Francisco way behind. Robert notes that British television programs we watch at home do not exaggerate the mix of ethnicities. The Middle East has a big presence in London. We see lots of women in headscarves as well as women in burkas—some with quirky sneakers peeking out underneath.
Lodging
Bonnie found an apartment in Kensington with the help of Ellin Klor’s preferred rental company, Ivy. It took a lot of work (ha) but Bonnie managed to find one furnished in the French and English Homey Style. Very charming if a bit fussy for Robert’s taste. It is a one-bedroom apartment on the third floor. The location in Kensington is great. We are close to cafes, grocery stores, pubs, and the Nottinghill Gate tube station.
Cars versus Pedestrians
This is for Jane. Remarkably, we found that Parisian drivers—taxis and private autos—stop at any marked crossing for pedestrians. Not so in London. It appears vehicles still rule the roadways. At signalized intersections, you often cross to a pedestrian island that makes you shift twenty feet to cross the other l lanes of traffic. Quite often, the signal only gets you to the island requiring you to wait for “permission” to cross—the lighted little green person. In any case, the timing is quite short and barely allows enough time. Cars only stop at striped crosswalks bookended with blinking yellow lights.
Wanderings
London Eye Pier and South Bank
Tate Modern
St. Paul’s Cathedral
More Wanderings
23 September 2022
Harrods
We were quite surprised by the famous Harrods department store. Robert bought a golf umbrella here forty-five years ago. Not now. The store is targeting high-end clientele. Bentleys are parked at the curb. This shift apparently happened about ten years ago when the historic store was purchased by the State of Qatar Sovereign Wealth Fund. Although Harrods’ motto is Ommia Omnibus Ubique (All things for all people everywhere), it seems they have abandoned that notion. The interior is quite claustrophobic with low ceilings and enclosed rooms for each brand—Chanel, Prada, Chloe, etc. Worth a quick visit, but not much more, except for the large Chocolate Hall.
Covent Garden
Victoria Embankment Gardens
24 September 2022
Portobello Road
Known for its antiques and other sundries. Mostly for tourists these days. A fifteen-minute walk from our apartment.
Food
