09-13 October 2022
A hiccup on our journey from Barcelona to Madrid. We arrive at the modern train station early with our tickets. Go through security check and find a place to sit directly in front of the board displaying train departures. Find ours on the board. Train leaving at 12:50 but delayed until 1:00. We can’t see any trains because they are a level below us. We are sitting in a vast, nearly empty, sea of stanchions, leading to escalators that are not yet open to go down to the train platforms. We wait patiently until a line starts to form, we join it, we show our boarding passes, and are told ”No es es.” (This is not the train). Ah. There are two different companies with trains leaving at the same time but not displayed on the same display board. Our train has already left on time. Most of the remaining trains to Madrid are sold out because it is Sunday afternoon and people are returning home. Luckily, we got a 4:00 pm train. We had purchased “comfort class” on the 12:50 train, but we found ”second class” on the 4:00 pm train to be very nice and very comfortable. After a few stops, the train was filled. Masks were required and all the passengers complied. The three-hour trip gave us a chance to see the countryside, including mountains and desert.
We took our time in Madrid to see the sights. A few museums, church’s, pre dinner drinks on Plaza Mayor, and a bit of wandering. Our last day there was Spanish Day, a national holiday. The Palace was closed because many dignitaries were arriving, passing through multiple police checkpoints. We did not recognize anyone, and they did not recognize us.
Bonnie did some research on vermouth in Madrid because we saw many bars advertising Vermut and because red vermouth is her favorite drink. Vermouth is a big deal here after being introduced by Italians. It faded in popularity in the 1970s but sweet red vermouth, served as an aperitif, is currently the hip drink. Many bars and restaurants make their own and serve it on tap. It is lighter and less sweet than the versions we are familiar with. Robert will investigate recipes when he gets home.
The weather in Madrid was mid 70s most days, tempered by cool mornings. It is still late summer in Madrid although it was definitely fall in London.
At one cafe, Robert ordered a gin and tonic. The waiter came to the table with a bottle of tonic, a glass with ice, a slice of lemon, and a bottle of gin. He poured the gin looking at Robert to indicate when to stop. Robert did not. Resulted in quite a pour! Although we thought this was a quirk, the same process happened again the next day at a different location. Pleasant surprise.
Tapas rule here. We had them for lunch and dinner. Bacalao (bacala/dried cod fish) shows up as a main course on many menus offered in variety of ways. There seem to be more restaurants in Madrid than in Barcelona, but that may just be a figment of Robert’s imagination. If there are, they are there to serve the masses of people who stroll the streets at all hours of the day. With 6.2 million people, Madrid is the third largest urban area in the European Union. As in Barcelona, the streets serve the pedestrians. Sidewalks are wide and often accommodate many places to sit to have a drink or a meal.
Dogs Dachhunds are the most common dogs we have seen in Paris, London, Barcelona, and Madrid. Long and short hair. Miniature and full size. But why? They are rare at home in San Francisco. Spaniels of all types are also common. Bonnie loves spaniels but seldom sees them at home. In general, the dogs in Europe seem less well socialized than dogs in San Francisco, and often snarl at one another on the sidewalk. Bonnie has yet to have a conversation with a dog as she does nearly every day in San Francisco. The dogs don’t seem interested and she is intimidated by a possible language barrier.
Hair Many Spanish women, all ages, have perfect hair. Cut expertly, blow dried, in a variety of flattering styles, perhaps with subtle blond highlights or full-on blond done beautifully. If the style is a bob of any length, the bottom edge is perfectly horizontal. These coifs look as if the bottom edge was trimmed just yesterday using a straight edge to make it precise. Do women here have weekly hair appointments? I wondered if I was just seeing a group of style-conscious, affluent women of leisure. But, no. As I sat in the outdoor terrace cafe at the Prado, four sturdy middle-aged women employees emerged from a corridor. Their jumpsuit uniforms suggested they worked as cleaners at the museum. All four had different hair styles. All four coifs were perfect.
Places visited r
Sunday 09 October 2022
Our hotel
Bonnie is batting 1000 on hotel selection. In Madrid our hotel was centrally located and a short walk from the Plaza Mayor and busy retail streets. Bonnie focuses on location when she makes her choices. Just one complaint. The television turned itself on one night at 2:30 AM.
Sunday 09 October 2022
10 October 2022
A Bit of Wandering
Museo Nacional del Prado
If you want to see LARGE paintings, go the Museo Nacional del Prado. Their collection of European art from the 12th to the 20th century is one of the finest, and the Prado claims to have the single best collection of Spanish art. Bonnie saw many paintings by Goya and Velasquez that she recalls from art history class. Unfortunately, the museum does not allow photography. Robert learned this after taking a few shots.
Nastagio degli Onesti, Sandro Botticellli, 1483
Robert’s interest was piqued when he saw three panels painted by Sandro Botticelli. They illustrate one story in the Decameron by Giovanni Boccaccio. It is a story of Nastagio’s unrequited love of a woman who rejected him. His despair was so great that he contemplated suicide. His friends told him to leave Florence and move to Ravenna. While in the forest he witnessed a knight chasing a woman and killing her. Nastagio tried to intervene but was unable to stop him. This knight was also rejected by the woman he loved, killed her, and then ended his life in suicide. Both were condemned to repeat this act every Friday following a large banquet. Nastagio stands back to watch the murder and the subsequent feast that begins the series of events again. On one night, Nastagio invites the woman he loves to this banquet to witness this repeated scene. The knight explains he is compelled to repeat this event every week because his love was rejected. Nastagio’s love interest then sees the light and immediately accepts Nastagio’s proposal of marriage. The fourth panel, privately owned, was not on display. It shows the wedding scene of Nastagio to his love. The kicker is that the panels were a gift by Lorenzo the Magnificent in 1483 to Giannozzo Pucci at his marriage to Lucrezia Bini. Hell of a gift.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nastagio_degli_Onesti
11 October 2022
Museo Sorolla
Bob Schmolze suggested that we see the work of Joaquin Sorolla (1863-1923) at the Prado and at the lovely house museum dedicated to his work. Sorolla was a Spanish Valencian painter known for formal portraits and also for informal scenes under bright Spanish sunlight. He exhibited widely in Europe and the US, winning multiple awards. His portraits of dignitaries required him to restrain his style but provided a steady income, allowing him to pursue looser, light-filled paintings. He was a friend of John Singer Sargent and like him painted portraits of famous people, including Mr. Taft, President of the United States. Thank you, Bob, for making us aware of this brilliant artist. We loved his work.
More Wandering
Mercado de San Miguel
Plaza Mayor
12 October 2022
The Palace
Catedral de la Almudena
More Wandering
Merande, tapas, raciones, e bebidas
I’m glad your schedule permitted a visit to Sorolla Museum. In addition to the art, the house and garden were a treat.
I think the same woman you photographed painting in Sorrolla’s garden, was there painting the day we visited.
El Yate provided a good meal to the many others you ate in Madrid.
Cheers – Bob
Thanks Bob. Outstanding recommendations.
BOB: Your suggestion to see Sorolla was spot on. Many thanks.