29 April-07 May

We settled in Modica, a baroque town in southeast Sicily, for 8 days, first getting acquainted with the historic area around our B&B, then taking day trips to towns and historic sites within 1.5 hours.

Below are descriptions of places we visited. After these, you will find our experiences categorized by what we saw and ate! Enjoy!

Ortigia-Siracusa

The highlight of Ortigia, the island that is the old town of Syracuse, went beyond the lively morning fish and vegetable mercato and the baroque architecture. Il Teatro dei Pupi (puppets) dates back to the Spanish occupation in the 1600s. The puppets, about 30 inches tall and beautifully clothed, are operated from above by three rods. The puppet shows are a continuing series of one story that revolves around the woman Angelica, whose beauty causes multiple knights, a king, and a warlord to pursue her, mixed with sorcery and the conquest of Sicily by the Saracens. (Literature majors will remember Orlando Furioso.) As with a series today, we were left with a cliffhanger—the castle burning, multiple slayings, and Angelica in total grief as to what her fate will be. We will need to come back next month if we want to see the next installment.

Ragusa

Still baroque.

Noto

Still baroque.

Scicli

More baroque. Great town. Could have stayed here several days.

Portopalo Capo Passero

The southwest-most point in Sicily. Historically known for tuna fishing. Had a fabulous seafood lunch here.

Marzamemi

Also known for tuna fishing. Now known as the site for festivals.

​​Cava d’Ispica

Within 20 minutes of Modica, the hillsides are layered with soft and hard rock facilitating digging for dwellings and catacombs.

Villa Romana del Casale

The largest expanse of Roman mosaics discovered to date—more than 3,500 square meters of flooring. This was a working estate. Some believe the owner imported exotic animals to be used in Rome’s Coliseum.

Le strade e Le passeggiata

Most of the towns we visited are World Heritage Sites because they were rebuilt after a devastating earthquake in 1693 in late Baroque style influence by the Spanish. These towns are built into and on mountains, which results in narrow, winding walkways that traverse the topography—some only for pedestrians, but most also for cars. Lots of stairs provide shortcuts from level to level. It all looks like an urbanist’s dream from the 1960s but unachievable when you add concerns for life and safety.

The towns are a whole other experience. In some towns the streets are barely wide enough for our vehicle. This is where Waze is no longer fun, taking you on routes that no AI in its right algorithm should guide you to, especially when it involves a turn of 90 degrees or less on a 9-foot wide road. Robert on more than one occasion disobeyed (gasp!) Waze’s direction.

Modica’s regional road system varies from highways of high quality to those that appear to be unmaintained for 20 years. Lots of roundabouts. And lots of crazy Italian drivers that suddenly appear in your rearview mirror, follow you at a four-meter distance, and then turn out to pass you on a blind curve.

Many of the roads and fields near Modica are lined with dry-laid stone walls, some in disrepair and some recently built. All beautiful in their own right. Beyond many of these walls are hothouses clad in solid plastic. Some vineyards have the same structures but covered in a fine mesh. From a distance they look like large fields of light-colored soil.

Cibi e bibite

A brief selection of the food and drinks we sampled in and around Modica. Lots of fish. A bit of a bite in some dishes. (Robert likes that!) Lots of vegetables incorporated into the meat dishes and a proliferation of caponata (zucchini, tomatoes, olives, capers, onions, etc). Very little garlic and not overly herbed. Very accommodating on milk-free dishes for Bonnie.

Oh, before we forget Modica is world renowned for its chocolate. Their recipe comes from Mexico via the Spanish in 1600. The Mexican recipe, only cacao and sugar, results in a richer and granular composition.

And one more item.

In eight days Robert walked 54 miles and climbed 200 floors and Bonnie walked 42 miles and climbed 125 floors. (He gets up earlier.)

Parte due to follow: Chiesi, chocolate, e fiori.