31 March – 06 April 2023

This was the end of our fishing experience in New Zealand . . . for this trip. We fished the North Island from two locations – Tongariro and Taupō, fifty miles north. In reality, the two guides access all the same fishing spots from either location. The cyclone that hit the area in mid February battered the east coast, but its winds actually swept across the North Island from one coast to the other, leaving swaths of timber fallen or snapped off. The destruction reminded Robert of what he has seen left by tornados. He saw planted forests of sixty-foot pines intact but bordering a swath of fallen timber that looked like a pile of toothpicks. One guide heard that it will take two years to clear the timber. They will harvest what is usable for milling and send the rest to become particle board or to be used as pulp for paper. Timber resting on the ground has about six months of viability before ground moisture and insects destroy the wood. Trees resting above the ground have about one year of viability. The additional impact of the downed trees is all the slash left behind will likely clog rivers and streams. It was interesting to see one river that was not affected by the storm. It was surrounded by native bush, not planted forests.

In general, fishing was tough in this area. Fishing access is limited because the cyclone made some rivers inaccessible. No matter what dries or droppers we used and how well we presented them, strikes were not guaranteed. We fished one river one day hand hooked one. The next day four. Others confirmed that they were experiencing the same. We saw many fish in pods. Not evenly distributed. Might be the beginning of spawning season.

31 March – 02 April 2023 – Tongariro Lodge

Our guide while we stayed at the Tongariro Lodge was Brent Pirie. A very nice, patient guide indeed. He has guided for decades, now full time. In his prior life, he was a hairdresser and a breakfast radio announcer, as he put it. Robert asked if this was the same as a morning DJ, and it is. He started in his teens and worked his way up. His favorite format was talk radio where he focused on specific topics and had guests. He still does commentary for CNN and has self-published several books on fishing. Fly fishing for Brent goes a long way back in his life as for many guides in New Zealand. He was taught by his uncle, helped a friend who was a guide, and then transitioned from part to full time.

Tauranga Taupō River – Day One

The weather was good that day. A bit cold in the morning requiring long underwear and a fleece pullover. We accessed the upper part of the river via the Kereru Lodge owned by Steve, a friend of Brent and also a guide. He leases the property from the local Māori. The lodge is primitive. You need four-wheel drive to get you, your steaks, and beer in. It has about three separate buildings with kitchens and multiple bedrooms each. And it has direct access to a great stretch of river.

This was the second time Brent went to Kereru after the cyclone. He visited the day before and drove by the entrance because he did not even recognize it with all the storm damage. He and his client, Rick, left early when they heard trees falling. Also, the Department of Conservation closes the gate to the access road at 4:00 pm and on weekends to minimize the need to rescue people after dark. When we arrived, we saw two trees across the road that blocked our way. We drove back to the Kereru Lodge gate, geared up, and walked down to meet Steve. Later in the day, Steve cut off the ends of the trees, allowing them to spring up enough for cars to pass under. Kiwi ingenuity again.

Oh, and the day proved fruitful. Out of two strikes, Robert landed one rainbow at 4.5 pounds. The largest rainbow he caught to date—until a few days later!

Tauranga Taupō River – Day Two

Same river. A lower reach. Rain threatened throughout the day but did not come down in any meaningful amounts. Brent said that Robert was doing everything right, following his instructions and casting well. But no fish. Still, a nice day.

Waitahanui River – Day Three

The rain is over and the day proved to be more sunny than cloudy. No long underwear needed! We accessed this river at several locations. Unlike other days, we did see a few more people fishing. It was Sunday after all. We went to one deep pool to begin (Reids Corner?), lots of fish. Another fellow was fishing a nice pool but left it to us after he learned Brent was guiding. Nice fellow. Local. We later met him as he was returning to his vehicle with a seven-pound brown trout that he was going to smoke and give to his elderly neighbor. Truly a nice guy.

Robert used Brent’s 7 wt. Sage rod because we were using heavily weighted droppers to get down into the swifter and deep current. (Sounds like Robert needs to get 7 wt.) We had several strikes that day and Robert was able to land one—a 5.75-pound jack rainbow. He had to play him away from a deeper pool with a swifter current. That would have ended our ability to net the fish. After about five minutes (seemed like fifteen), Robert played the fish to Brent’s capable hands and net. No fish for the rest of the day, but it really did not matter to Robert. Largest rainbow he has landed so far.

04 – 07 April 2023—Taupō

Our guide for three days was Mark Aspinall. He likes to say You are on the cusp of greatness. Very encouraging. He is very passionate about fishing in a very good way. He probably gets more excited than Robert when Robert actually sets the hook properly. He often said to Robert, I don’t think you know what you have hooked onto!, referring to the size of the trout. Robert did not. They actually appear smaller in the water, not revealing to Robert their weight and girth until they are in the net and in Robert’s hands for the photo op.

Mark was born in Scotland, his parents emigrating to New Zealand in the late 1960s when Mark was a year old. New Zealand at that time was offering economic incentives for members of the Commonwealth to settle in New Zealand. He has been in Taupō for nearly forty years and has guided on his own as well as managed guiding for the Poronui Lodge for many years in the past. The Poronui Lodge is world famous as a fishing and hunting lodge. In 2004, one of Robert’s guides was Paddy Clark. Mark met Paddy Clark at the Poronui Lodge decades ago. Paddy was instrumental in getting Mark talent’s known to a wider audience including The Best of New Zealand Flyfishing. Mark is a full-time guide. During the off season, he goes to other locations in the North Island to fish and relax.

Robert is still slow on the strike and has lost more than a few fish this way, often hearing Mark exclaim with his hands on his head You are SLOW on the strike. Robert claims it is because of the admonishment he received from guides on the South Island who said (with much conviction) that Robert was setting the strike too hard. Mark’s response was that we are fishing the NORTH Island and that the South Island does not exist! Robert needs to hone his skill at seeing the slightest movement in the indicator in order to set the hook in more timely (and effective) manner! He is getting a bit better in casting the indicator with two droppers and mending the line. After three days of guiding Robert, Mark refers to this set up as Double Trouble. Robert needs to be less timid in casting the fly strongly over short distances. Kiwis are known for slamming their flies into the water. Less chance of tangling, better direction, and more assured that the fly will sink quickly. Robert is improving and hopefully, this will become muscle memory for him in the future.

Tauranga Taupō River – Day One

After stopping for a coffee and a lamb mince pie, Robert and Mark went to the Kereru River where Brent had taken Robert previously. The signs of the cyclone’s destruction are clearly evident. Crews were out harvesting timber.

Instead of fishing downstream, we worked our way up stream from the lodge fishing some pool and riffles along the banks. Turned out to be a great day. Used both the 5 wt. and 6 wt. rods, mainly with one or two droppers with an indicator. A few drys also. Out of five strikes, Robert landed three—2.5, 3.5, and 5 pounds. All rainbows. Robert is getting a wee bit better in casting the two dropper-indicator setup.

04 April 2023

Day Two – Hinemaiaia Stream and Waitahanui River

We fished several locations but mainly focused on the Waitahanui River (several reaches). Mark pampered Bonnie with straightforward and easy access to the water, instruction, a great lunch, and a chair to read a book while overlooking a pool that Mark and Robert were fishing. Robert had two strikes, one that took. Instead of moving downstream, the fish headed upstream toward a large overhang of shrubs and successfully broke the leader on one of the two hooks. Mark was downstream, because most trout move in that direction to take advantage of the flow’s added pressure. Not so in this case. Mark was more bummed out than Robert. He kept saying that the trout was in the ten to twelve pound range and would have been the best of the season for him in this area. Robert said that even with the upstream trajectory of the fish, it was the most pressure on the rod that he has experienced in this trip.

And did we mention that Bonnie caught the only fish (a rainbow) that day?!? And on a dry fly!

07 April 2023

Day Three – Waitahanui River

Last day fishing in New Zealand and it was a good day! The weather was neither too hot or too cold and a bit overcast. Although Robert was slow on the strike, he set the hook properly 4 out of 9 times: a 6.5 to 7-lb. rainbow, a 5.5-lb. rainbow, a 5-lb. brown, and a 3.5-lb. rainbow. All on droppers except for the brown on a fly.

Next Fishing Spot — None for this trip